I have magnetic material from my sign shop, used some double-sided adhesive from another roll of material I had, placed that onto the magnet, then placed the PEI onto the other side of adhesive, making it a magnetic sheet.It sticks down to my Ender 3D Pro machine without any further adhesive that was supplied with this sheet, comes off just like the magnetic sheet that came with the printer, but is much more rigid.Works well with BLTouch and prints PLA and PETG just fine! Nice and smooth, shiny surface to parts I've printed and pops off easily once cooled down with just a little lift of the magnet.

Tried it all, glass, buildtak, blue tape kapton tape. Been printing for several years. Would not consider using any another surface but this one. It's thick and be clamped down or glued with 3m adhesive tape that comes with it. Claping give you double sided

I had previously bought two of these in the 235x235 for my Ender and absolutely love them. They work like a dream. They have the adhesive already applied.Not so with these. And the adhesive is VERY unforgiving. It is very thin and fragile. Place it in the wrong spot and you're out of luck--the 3M backing rips off. It's so fragile that simply peeling the protective backing off the adhesive can tear the sheet.I'm sure the PEI sheet itself will ultimately be fine, but I might have to go buy extra 3M sheets to make it work.

I've used this for around 200 prints using PLA, ABS and PETG and they've all adhered very nicely. Removal of the parts isn't too difficult but you will need to be careful which tools you use for removal or you'll cut into the PEI surface and after a few of those it'll be ruined. I'm using a metal putty knife that I've smoothed the edges on and it works great with no damage to the surface.After printing with PETG I've found that I need to clean the surface between prints to remove the residue from the last print. I alternate using plain rubbing alcohol with a lint free rag and occasionally using a fine grade (00) of steel wool. Be careful using steel wool around the connector of your hotbed, it does shed off small particles of steel that could get into your connector and short things out.

I have a robo 3d r1, and after owning it a week, i broke the glass bed getting a stuck print off the glass. After getting new glass, I put of one of these PEI sheets down and now my prints stick great while printing, then come right off after they cool, and the heat from my bed transfers through great.. Work GREAT. If you cannot find them the right size, if you score it with a razor knife, you can snap off the excess. The only problem I have and this is a small trade-off I can deal with, after each print, there is a small amount of residue or staining that I cannot seem to clean off, even with alcohol, then the next big surface thing I print, I can see some of the previous print in the mirror like surface you get from where the print is face down. Again, a small price to pay to not ruin your printer. These are worth the money, and bonus, you get 2 and the sheets to adhere it with. If you have room to clip it on your glass with binder clips, you may want to do that, reason being, after your print is done, you can un-clip it and flex it to get your print off. I immediately glued mine down then realized that after the fact.I will never print again without one of these in-place.

I needed PEI for my monoprice maker select plus and this stuff works great. ABS likes 90-100C and PLA likes 50-60C. First thing you want to do is to put this on glass and you'll end up with a perfectly flat and low maintenance build surface that everything sticks to. The bottoms of your prints will also be super smooth (great for LCD bezels!) and if you put this on glass, you'll remove the risk of the glass breaking with the print attached.Applying the 3M tape is a bit of a pain and you need to take your time with it to get good results. It is super sticky and DO NOT try to lift it up if you mis-stick it, it will stretch like snot. If you misalign the adhesive, just keep going until you are done placing it and then use a super sharp razor (I am talking about using a scalpel or the blade from a shaving razor, not an exacto or box cutter blade) and trim the excess off so you can reuse on the area that was missed. Be sure to apply to your flat surface first then put the PEI on. If you apply the adhesive to the PEI first, you run the risk of having a little bow due to the flexibility of the material.I tried three methods: using the including strips, the wet method, and the hinge method. Keep in mind if you buy an 8" sheet, you will have very little wiggle room and you need to line things up perfectly. That's why I went with the 10" sheet for an 8" printer.The strip method is the quick and dirty way. It is quick and works reasonably well. I didn't have any issues with this but they do include a full sheet of 3M so I used it..The wet method is done by mixing 2-3 drops of dish soap with water and spraying it on the glass with an atomizing sprayer. I lined up the sheet on my glass then peeled the backing away about a quarter inch on one corner. With the adhesive laying down and square, I stuck that corner down then lifted it up, bent it back like a C then used a credit card to press and squeegee out the water as I peeled the backing off and laid it down. Once it is completely laid down, use your credit card as a squeegee to get the rest of the water/air bubbles out then let it dry over night.The hinge method is close to the vinal application where you line it up but tape it down with masking tape like a hinge then use a credit card to squeeze out the air bubbles as you go along. It worked alright but was pretty tedious.Applying the PEI to adhesive is pretty straight forward. I don't recommend the wet method because the PEI is much harder to squeeze water out from under. If you have a thin glass, you may want to consider heating the PEI and glass up to about 70C then applying the PEI because the contraction/expant forces at higher temperatures might cause a tiny bow. Pretty much I just peeled the protective backing off half way and stuck a corner down then use a credit card to press the PEI onto the adhesive.Removing the PEI from the glass isn't that hard. Toss it in your freezer for 1-2 hours and then it will peel right off. Let the 3M tape warm up to room temperature then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel + a fresh razor blade to remove it. Wear gloves, the adhesive becomes like straight slimy snot and sticks to skin like you wouldn't believe.Removing prints from the surface should be done at lower temperatures, I believe lulzbot recommends 50C but I wait until 30C. If you try to pull a print off while still hot you run the risk of pulling the PEI from the adhesive and any microbubbles will immediately fill that area causing a bulge.I clean my sheet with plain paper towels and rubbing alcohol. I found that using acetone made it hard for ABS to stick.Adhesion is great on it's own but if you run into trouble you can use 2000 grit sand paper to roughen the surface slightly for better grip. As I mentioned before I had some trouble with ABS sticking after using acetone to clean the build surface. I was able to "restore" the surface by mixing some scrap ABS in a glass cup with acetone and stirring until it was a thin fluid. I heated the bed up to 100C and painted the ABS slurry on then let it bake for a few minutes to evaporate the acetone. The adhesion was so strong afterwards that I had to use vice grips to remove my print!