Works as advertised. However for those looking for a tool that can interchange with common hairpieces, you must change shaft and sheath. Makes the handpiece it comes with a paper weight. Motor and pedal work good. Cheap enough but expect add ons.

It works. There's more vibration in the chuck than I'd like, but for the price it's okay.

I’ve really wanted to get into power carding and this is my opportunity. I was trying to do so with pneumatic die grinder but it just didn’t have enough power because of my small compressor. This flex shaft rotary tool is way better. It has plenty of power.I really like the foot pedal which controls the speed of the tool. With the right bits, you can make almost anything. The bits the kit came with are not very good for wood carving, so I’m leaning towards a set from kutzall.This is a very nice rotary tool. There’s nothing bad to say about it. The shaft is truly flexible and delivers the same power no matter the angle you are cutting. I made the cuts in the photo with a 1/4” die grinder bit. Changing the bit is super easy.I’m looking forward to making masterpieces with this tool.

This 1000W flex shaft rotary tool is awesome! I carve stone, and up till how I’ve only use a smaller tool with a flex shaft attachment, which was only able to accommodate 1/8” burrs. …But this machine is a dedicated flex-shaft tool, with way more power, and can even accommodate my larger 1/4” shank tools. Lovin it! I look forward to a happy, dusty future together.I’m impressed with the speed and power at-the-ready. I need to re-rig my old, spindly suspension system because this one has such acceleration torque that it twists and jumps around on startup. I also like the durable feel offered by the metal sheathing of the flex shaft.Like I said before, the ability to use my 1/8” and my 1/4” shank burrs all on the same flex-shaft tool is huge. That’s something I’ve long wished for.A few things I took note of, though I don’t know if others have found these to be problematic…GRIP — Right away I felt like the tool handle was too slippery (smooth metal), so I cut a finger off a rubber glove and slipped it over the metal shell. It made some improvement, but in the future I’ll probably wrap it with a grip tape of some sort.PEDAL POWER — I really like the flexibility of a foot switch (in fact I had rigged one up with my small previous rotary tool). However, I was a bit skeptical going in, about variable speed control on a foot pedal. Perhaps my toes are just not that dexterous, but I found the speed too difficult to control with the pedal. For me it was pretty much either off, or at full-speed. For my purposes, I actually need to operate in the mid-range, so I hooked the pedal to a speed controller with a dial. And that brought a wonderfully versatile range of speed control to the operation.I suppose another possible way to control the speed with finesse might be to mount the pedal base to a large flat baseboard, then attach a 2-ft perpendicular post onto the top pedal. Then you could control the speed by moving the lever sideways with your leg or knee (like some sewing machines do).CHUCK & KEY — I get it that the key needs a slot to access the gear, but that deep, wide open notch is a hazard. I don’t know why the notch opening needs to be so deep. By my measure, it is a full 5/16” larger/deeper than it needs to be. So there’s a relatively ‘gaping’ hole right at the place where you grip the tool with your finger tips, with gear teeth spinning at 2000-3000 rpm. I’ve already accidentally snagged my finger (gloved) in that gap. The notch only needs to be 1/16 or 1/8” deep for the key to fit, so a smaller notch, or perhaps a sliding gate cover would make it much safer.…Or perhaps a different key design altogether, which would access the gear from the top rather than the side, requiring no side notch at all. —I’ve got an idea for a 2-part “collar” key that could be operated with one hand (in either direction, for tightening or loosening).