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Tusk Aluminum Brake Pedal Red Tip Compatible with Beta 300 RR Race Edition 2020-2025/300 RR 2020-2024

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$59.99

$ 27 .99 $27.99

In Stock
  • Fits Multiple Models - See Fitment Guide Image for Fitment
  • Stock replacement motorcycle brake pedal; engineered to meet the demands of motocross and off-road racing
  • Pedal arm is made from forged, anodized aluminum; the tip is made from CNC machined billet aluminum
  • Rotating CNC toe tip prevents damage from crashes and impacts. *Tip also features stainless steel cleats and is replaceable in a variety of anodized colors
  • Adjustable length brake saver cable and mounting bracket also included. (Cable will need to be crimped once desired length is achieved.)


The Tusk aluminum brake pedal uses an extremely tough forged aluminum arm with a CNC machined toe tip to make this brake pedal one of the strongest you can buy for your motorcycle. The CNC machined tip is spring-loaded and rotates to prevent damage from crashes and impacts. The CNC tip also features stainless steel cleats for maximum traction; it is also replaceable in a variety of colors. The Tusk brake pedal also includes an adjustable length brake saver cable and mounting bracket to help prevent damage from brush, rocks, etc.


The Truth
Reviewed in the United States on April 2, 2024
Installed on my 2024 Beta 300RR. the foot lever itself is amazing and the teeth/grip are insanely good, as is the overall function and build quality. If you don't use the safety wire then stop here and I'd say it's 5 stars for sure!For those of you that want to use the safety wire:My only complaint and the reason for 4-stars is that the aluminum wire anchor bracket is made for anchoring to an engine mount (like you'd see on a Jap bike) but will not work as intended for the Beta (a massive oversight IMO). The Beta engine mount has a nut cradle welded in so you can't mount anything flush in that location (refer to my pics and you'll see what I mean) and the bike is engineered far too well to try to squeeze the thick aluminum bracket between the frame/engine mount tab and engine case. I was able to anchor the wire to one of the starter mount bolt locations (8mm bolt) using a thinner steel washer that I drilled and modified to fit (took 5 mins). I did this because the hole is the bracket that comes with the part is too big unless you use a washer, and the bracket is already so thick without adding a washer that it won't allow enough meat on the threads to comfortably torque the started bolt back down --and that would be a terrible place to strip threads haha. You could always go buy a longer bolt, but that location is tight and would probably require modifying the bracket to fit anyway, so a trip to the hardware store for a longer bolt was redundant IMO. I'm very happy with it overall now that its done, but be prepared for a bit of simple fabricating and/or purchasing a longer bolt. Hope this helps!