Very low spin-out torque and rough threads. Sometimes just getting the bolt into the bad threads required enough torque that it caused the plusnut to spin out. Ribbed rivnuts from mcmaster worked better, but not by a whole lot. Setting the clutch on my battery drill to anything higher than a 4 risked a spin-out, which isn't very tight - I'd worry about them vibrating loose eventually at that setting. I was using high-quality stainless bolts from mcmaster so I don't think it was the threads on the bolts causing the problem. A secondary cause of this problem is over-compressing these nuts during install; it's easy to have inconsistent application force even with a manual tool which can greatly effect the holding force. Not only do the plus-wings on the back side get over-compressed (less contact with the sheet metal) but it can also damage the threads. You also must be careful not to misalign the tool when compressing.Eventually I got a sheet of 20ga sheet metal from the store to do some practice runs and tests. I found internal-tooth 3/8" lock washers and put it under the flange head before placing these in the hole - worked like a charm and I had no more spinners after that. Even cranking on them with a maximum clutch setting on the drill was fine - though still not advisable. It does increase the protrusion of the flange head by a small amount. I also applied anti-seize to all bolts before installing, to help reduce the problems with the threads.Bought a bunch of these to convert a 2022 ford transit van. I think the sheet metal of the van interior body is a little too thin for these to work optimally. They work a lot better on the thicker parts of the metal, but those are not the majority. After installing many of these, I found it was incredibly easy to over-torque them. This causes the nut to spin and become useless. They are a huge pain to get out, especially if you can't access the back side at all - in the van, most of them you can, but not all. To get them out I used a dremel tool with a cutting wheel. I would cut the face of the plus-nut like a pie into 8 slices and use pliers to bend the flange inwards so it could fall out. If you can't access the back of the nut though, this process means it would fall in and get lost forever in some inaccessible cavity in the van body. Tedious but reliable process to remove all the nuts I originally installed so I could replace them with the lock-washer technique described above.Works with the astro 1450 tool to install; but it takes more than 1 stroke to fully compress the plusnut compared to a rivet. You can buy an extended mandrel tip to make it work in 1 stroke but I didn't find that necessary. Just take one stroke, screw it in a little further, and take another stroke. Don't over-compress. Practice to get a feel for it.Overall these worked, but it took some trial and error that I didn't see anybody else talk about in all of the van-building material I watched or read.

Does what its supposed to.

These Cross nuts are a fast and effective way to install threads in blind holes. They provide superior pullout resistance in thin sheet metal and plastic materials. When installed correctly, the cross nut collapses on the back side creating a flange that creates a sturdy, reliable grip on the inside of the mounting surface.

These are the best you can use. They will fit in most Ford transit holes.Biggest downside is there isn't a tool to fasten them as far as I know.Most tools are made for rivnuts and won't do the job for these.

Need the right tool for krimping

Pour visser mes planches de mon bateau

I used about 200 Steel Cross Nut- Pre-Bulbed - 1/4-20 .280 Grip Cross nut pre-bulbed to build out my van. They made for very secure attachment point for anything I bolted on to the walls or ceiling.I used the 1/4-20 Hex Hand Wrench. This works well but I found the Allen wrench slow and clumsy.So I bought this 3/8 Hex socket and used a Ratchet wrench instead.I also tried a hex head with my impact gun but I could get them as tight as I did with the ratchet.The socket and ratchet made the job much easier. Hope this helps.Williams 35212 1/2-Inch Drive Hex Bit Socket, 3/8-Inchhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YR9UXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/THREADED-RIVET-NUTS-ALUMINUM-STAINLESS-INSERTS/dp/B01CUL8D9G?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_dp

These thing are the best and hold extremely well but can be very difficult to install without the right tool. The only tool I found needs an easy modification to use it with the plus nut. With this tool, which can be purchased on Amazon, and my mod I can install one of these in less then a minute, If you are struggling contact me and I show you how to make the mod with a couple parts from the local hardware store. Dave d_nash@att.net

With no installation tool available you have to create a tool/bolt/washer combo to install these. Takes a lot of hand strength to. Hope the effort was worth it.

Fantastic threaded inserts. Works like a molly bolt, but much stronger for metal applications. Used them all over my Ford Transit cargo van. Love these things. BUT you should buy an install tool to make installation much easier.

I needed some additional anchor points in my truck bed (which is plastic) and didn't trust any of the methods I knew about (basically, rivet-nuts and similar or drywall-type anchors). Searching finally found these. They have a decent head flange, wide flaring behind the panel, strong, heavy construction, and several threads to engage once installed. Six months later, I'm still happy with how they worked out.Only complaint I have is they don't sell these in smaller quantities (but I now have a lifetime supply!).